Transportation in Lesotho has made me a very patient (or crazy) individual.
The bus stop is a select spot on the side of the road that has a few nice “butt rocks”. Yesterday morning I didn’t have a chance to “park” as the bus was actually on time. I had to jog the last stretch of trail to get to the road before the bus made it. It’s rained for several days so I slid several times running down the red muddy slope. The bus was nearly empty, because of the rain. Most Basotho hate the water and when it floods we have to take a boat across the river and get on another bus. Somedays I could spend 4+ hours on a rock on the side of the road, waiting for the bus. Somedays it never comes, somedays it's 4 hours late and somedays it's actually "on-time" (whatever that means).
The road from Mashai and most of Thaba Tseka is a very bumpy, rocky road that currently is washed out it several places. The slick mud from the heavy rains made the bus move really fast, or really slow, or not at all. We got stuck a few times, the longest for an hour. We were going uphill and stopped then slide backwards quite away, it was a little nerve wracking. I plugged into my ipod and “shut it all out”. Especially when other buses passed us on the down side and every time the brakes were applied they would slide several feet. There are no guard rails on these beautiful mountain roads.
At the Thaba Tseka bus rank (a muddy, empty lot) the bus became full (really full). The rivers were behind us so the bus filled quickly. All the seats were full and the center aisle was crammed with as many bodies as you can get shoved into that small space. I was so happy I wasn’t one of the passengers standing in the center aisle. I’ve spent some quality time sandwiched in one of those spots and always get out of the bus with a few new bruises.
Another seat that really sucks is the edge of a center aisle. All the people standing lean or sit on top of your shoulder or head. If your lap is empty anyone standing in the center can put their bag, child or chickens on your lap. It’s almost as uncomfortable as standing for 8 hours on the really bumpy, rocky, muddy roads.
Yesterday I had my nice comfortable seat by the window. I could occasionally open the window for some air flow, but have to shut it soon after. Basotho think they'll get really sick if the wind blows in their faces. I've tried to explain the chances of getting TB while having 100 bodies confined in a bus with no air flow is much higher, but they just think I'm a crazy American. I was sitting next to a huge woman who’s elbow was in my kidney for a good part of the journey, but that’s nothing compared to other bus journeys I’ve had. For part of the trip she fell asleep on my shoulder. In the states I would have totally felt uncomfortable, but here… no big deal. A little weird, but no big deal. I was content tuning in to my Ipod and staring out the mud splattered window at the beautiful villages and people that waved to the bus. For ten hours…
The bus stop is a select spot on the side of the road that has a few nice “butt rocks”. Yesterday morning I didn’t have a chance to “park” as the bus was actually on time. I had to jog the last stretch of trail to get to the road before the bus made it. It’s rained for several days so I slid several times running down the red muddy slope. The bus was nearly empty, because of the rain. Most Basotho hate the water and when it floods we have to take a boat across the river and get on another bus. Somedays I could spend 4+ hours on a rock on the side of the road, waiting for the bus. Somedays it never comes, somedays it's 4 hours late and somedays it's actually "on-time" (whatever that means).
The road from Mashai and most of Thaba Tseka is a very bumpy, rocky road that currently is washed out it several places. The slick mud from the heavy rains made the bus move really fast, or really slow, or not at all. We got stuck a few times, the longest for an hour. We were going uphill and stopped then slide backwards quite away, it was a little nerve wracking. I plugged into my ipod and “shut it all out”. Especially when other buses passed us on the down side and every time the brakes were applied they would slide several feet. There are no guard rails on these beautiful mountain roads.
At the Thaba Tseka bus rank (a muddy, empty lot) the bus became full (really full). The rivers were behind us so the bus filled quickly. All the seats were full and the center aisle was crammed with as many bodies as you can get shoved into that small space. I was so happy I wasn’t one of the passengers standing in the center aisle. I’ve spent some quality time sandwiched in one of those spots and always get out of the bus with a few new bruises.
Another seat that really sucks is the edge of a center aisle. All the people standing lean or sit on top of your shoulder or head. If your lap is empty anyone standing in the center can put their bag, child or chickens on your lap. It’s almost as uncomfortable as standing for 8 hours on the really bumpy, rocky, muddy roads.
Yesterday I had my nice comfortable seat by the window. I could occasionally open the window for some air flow, but have to shut it soon after. Basotho think they'll get really sick if the wind blows in their faces. I've tried to explain the chances of getting TB while having 100 bodies confined in a bus with no air flow is much higher, but they just think I'm a crazy American. I was sitting next to a huge woman who’s elbow was in my kidney for a good part of the journey, but that’s nothing compared to other bus journeys I’ve had. For part of the trip she fell asleep on my shoulder. In the states I would have totally felt uncomfortable, but here… no big deal. A little weird, but no big deal. I was content tuning in to my Ipod and staring out the mud splattered window at the beautiful villages and people that waved to the bus. For ten hours…
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We spent 1 hour and moved about 15 feet on this slippery spot of the road
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